Here is your chance all you bow hunting fanatics.  I have never had any desire to shoot a bow, but drawing a rifle permit in my country for deer has become a once in seven year affair. Since the stalk is most of the reason I like to hunt, I have decided to consider bow hunting.  I don't want to spend any more than $250 to get started.  I am not interested in all the latest and greates gadgets.  In fact I am considering getting a recurve instead of a compound.  I am an old dog, but I would like to learn some new tricks.  Is anyone out there willing to give me a little or a lot of advice?  I don't know what will come of it, but the best place to learn anything is from those who practice their trade.  If you would take time to share your thoughts with me, I would be very much apreciative.  I will check back periodically to see what you all have to say.
Thanks!

I don't know if you have any good bow shops there where you live, but here in OK we have one that is extremely knowledgeable and helpful.  Anyone can go in there and tell them what you are looking for, what your price range is, etc. and they will show you what they have, measure you to make sure you get the right size, let you try a few test shots with a couple of different models so you can see which one you like best, etc.  I actually got my first bow this year, about a month after I got my muzzleloader.  The bowshop was having their annual anniversary sale and so I entered the door prize drawing and I WON a bow!  (Let me tell you I was jumping off the walls!)  But my problem was worrying about finding one that I would be able to draw back because I don't have a lot of strength in my arms/shoulders.  (It doesn't do me any good to have a bow if I can't actually use it!)  So they showed me several different models and explained the differences of each type, brand, etc.  I settled on a Hoyt Ultra Sport, which is a compound bow and the draw weight can be set between 40-50 pounds.  I haven't built my strength up enough to pull back 50 pounds yet, but what I am saying is that the bow shop I went to showed me everything from the proper way to draw my bow, how to aim with my peep sight, making sure the nocks on my arrows were aligned properly, etc.  They spent a great deal of time with me making sure I was set up properly and making sure I had a bow that I was going to enjoy using.  I would suggest at least talking to someone at your bow shop if there is a good one near and see what they suggest.  They can let you try out a few and make suggestions and you don't have to buy anything right away,  You can come back here, and tell everyone what you tried out and what you liked and then get more feedback on it before you actually go out and buy it.

This is something we are also interested in.  Thanks for asking and answering, too!
 :-)
 oh, and RNW, *hug* back!
 ~Kit

The first bow i ever shot was a recurve. An old recurve, it had one sight and no accesories. I was about 5 years old at the time...
 
I got started hunting with a compound bow, Parker Challenger...that plus all the accesories cost my dad over $500!
 
I appreciate my man for doing that for me..I now feel guilty the more i think about it, because i am working and making money, and i realize how hard it was to make $500. I get $25 dollars to scrap a 100-180 board house (not the amount of scraps, the amount of full boards my dad put into to hang the house) $50 dollars to scrap a 181-280 board house and $75 dollars to scrap a 281-350 board house and $100 dollars to scrap a 351+ board house.
 
Our average board house we'eve scrapped is about 340 boards...that's the average..
 
So i work my rear off to make $500..now i know how my dad felt to work his rear off to buy me all that...
 
I will repay the man somehow...I owe it to him...

I caught my Hoyt(Compound) on clearance, it being last years model and completely unacceptable to deer this year , and if I remember right it was about $350 and came with nearly all the bells and whistles allready attached. For $250 you could probably get a pretty good used compound with sight pins, peep, and a quiver. If you keep your eyes peeled in all the usual places for used hunting gear one will pop up sooner or later, before next season. I dont really know how much used recurves go for, but new ones are about the same as compunds from what I have seen. Jay can hook you up with the plans to make one if you prefer, I bet he would love to.
 
 Regardless of type of bow, draw length and draw weight are more important than anything else. Make sure you get one that fits. A good outdoor shop should be set up to measure you. There is a way to do it without a bow, but using a bow with a special arrow(like a yard stick) is best. The next most important thing IMO is your draw weight. I suppose you could lay on a bench and see how comfortable you are pulling barbels back to your ear, up to 70 # and see what you need. BUT, surely the better way would be to go to said outdoor shop and try various ones and see what you are comfortable with. I am shooting 60# right now, and I am by no means a buff guy. I am probably even going to drop mine down to 55, to get a smoother more inconspicuos draw. You need to have at least 45 I believe to be effective, and with open country you may want to go up to 70 to get the most range/ flattest trajectory out of your bow. Generally compunds will have an adjustable draw weight within either 10 or 20 pound ranges. Mine is 50-60, some are 50-70 or 60-70, and youths tend to run between 40-50/60. Recurves will be fixed draw weights. With a compund you'll want to lower it all the way down and work your way up. Jay has mentioned how he works his way up using several different bows with increasing draw weights, to avoid shoulder injuries.
 
 If you like shooting firearms, then I am betting you will like shooting a bow. The same principles apply. You have to use the same arrow weights, draw the same, set the arrow the same, release the same and keep that same steady position during the shot. The smallest differences will cause your accuracy and groups to change. I get as much enjoyment shooting my bow as I do my rifles and handguns. Plus, you can use the arrows repeatedly, unlike bullets. Even if you have to buy new arrows or get them refletched, it's cheaper than centerfire ammo. And if you prefer reloading, you can make your own arrows, same kind of principle.
 
 If you couldn't tell, I really like my bow and shooting it. I can just go out back and shoot after work to relax which I cant do with my guns. Preseason, several of us would take our bows to work and have at it during our lunch break. Plus the extra 30 days of hunting season for bowhunters here in Texas. There is nothing but positives to archery shooting/hunting.
 
 Again, Jay is the man you want to talk with about Recurves, and don't let him convince you that training wheels are the work of the devil, they have their place.    They are very easy to use and get used to, though if you are looking for traditional, you would obviously get more enjoyment out of a recurve.

A bow shop sounds like a good idea except the closest one I know of is 200 miles away. I live out here in the middle of the middle of nowhere. Actually there are a lot of little towns here, but we just don't seem to be able to support a gunshop or an archery shop. Its too bad, but that's the way it is when Walmart moves into rural America.
 
12 gauge, thats what parents like to do, bless their kids. Just appreciate your blessings and live a life that says thank you.
 
Now back to Bows and arrows. I don't forsee pull weight as being any concern once I get this shoulder built back up. I finally got out of the sling after 9 weeks and am beginning to move the arm again. However, it may be a bit before I can seriously consider a heavy draw bow. I have seen several used on Ebay that seem fairly complete, they have arrows, release, sights, and other things which I havn't quite figured out yet. Most of these advertised complete outfits have sold for 250 or less, but I am not sure if that is good or bad.
Since most indicate 60 to 70 pound draw weight, and 28 to 30 draw length, I assume they are adjustable to some degree. One assumption I have made since thy seem to be in the higher draw range, is that a 70 lb draw weight is not for everyone. Are the arrows then made to custom length to match your draw or are they generic? Sorry, I just have lots of questions and no place close to go for answers.
 
Thanks for all your input to date. If anyone has anything to add, I would appreciate your input.

All compound bows are adjustable to some degree. On average, most bows advertised at a particular poundage are safely adjusted 10 to 15 lbs. down. Draw length is more important than the draw wieght. The bow must fit you. All arrows are approximately the same length when bought but are cut down to suit your draw length and any overdraw (how far back the arrow rest is set) you may have. The draw wieght and total length of the arrow will determine which arrow size is correct for you. Bow let-off is another consideration. I have a bow with 80% let-off set at 68 lbs of draw wieght. At full draw I am holding 11 lbs. Most bows will come with 70%, 65% is still available, I don't know if 50% is still made. Actually, Genesis bows have no let-off and draw length isn't set. They can be shot at 28 in. of draw or 31 in.
  There are a lot of variables to consider and it's best to consult an archery shop. They should be able to set you up with all the equipment you need. Even if it's only the information required for the bow to fit you properly. Don't buy a used bow unless you know it is right for you. A bow that don't fit you is useless.
 
John.

I started shooting compound bows when i was 9. My dad bought me and my brother our own bows. I got a PSE Bandit 20# to 40# i think. I shot that thing for about 3 years and then i kinda lost interest and i wanted to skateboard, that was a big mistake and i wish i never stopped shooting. and not until this last summer i started shooting that little bow again but i shot with out sights because they were off and the peep was messed up so i shot instinctivly. i got pretty good to were i could hit the dot on th bag from about 25yds every time. But now for this christmas dad bought me a new bow . We got it at valley archery in vanceburg KY. I got a PSE DeerHunter whisker bisquit gold tip carbon arrows not sure what sight and i use my old release. the guy at the shop gave dad a good deal becuase hes known him for a while it was only $200 exact. Just before i started my reply i was out setting up my pins and it shoots great at 53#. ive got my 20 yd pin and im about to go out and set up my 30 and 40 yd pins.

IMO the most important thing to do first is to find a bow that fits you, whether it be a recurve or a compound you need one that fits your draw length.  Next is your arrow size it does matter to a point for velocity and kinetic energy transfer.  Third get a draw weight that is comfortable to you, Don't fall into the FPS speed trap any arrow flying at 180fps will pass clean though a deer so 300fps is just less time for what they call string jump (the movement of a deer from the time the string pops to the time of impact).  It is unfortunate that your closest bow shop is 200miles away cause you need the draw length, and arrow size fitted to you.  Not every bow can be adjusted and those that can can only be adjusted within certian ranges and it all depends on the cam used and the limbs.  A guy a knew bought a Hoyt ultra-tech these are normally very adjustable so he bought it, when it arrived he took it to the bow shop to have the draw length set and because of the cam used it was set at 28inches and couldn't be adjust without replacing the cam which cost about the same amount he paid for the bow on ebay.
 
For Draw Weight you should be able to pull the bow back in one smooth motion, but that isn't the big thing, you should be able to hold the draw comfortably without feeling any strain for at least 30-60 seconds.
 
I shoot a 26inch draw length cause I'm short.  I have a 56pound draw weight, and I use a 28inch arrow (aluminium), with 100grain tips.  I shoot 192FPS.  I have one of the shortest draw lengths made for adult bows, I shoot a heavy arrow, and at a slow speed, but I can touch my arrows in groups of 4 at 20yards.  Alot of people wouldn't agree with my set up but the bow fits me properly and I'm accurate and if it's not comfortable and you can't hit your target it's no fun.  If you want feel free to leave me a message or e-mail me with questions, I'm not here everyday, so e-mailing me would be faster :)

Quote from: arcticwolfhartIMO the most important thing to do first is to find a bow that fits you ...  
 
  Next is your arrow size it does matter ...
 
  Third get a draw weight that is comfortable to you...
 
 It is unfortunate that your closest bow shop is 200miles away cause you need the draw length, and arrow size fitted to you. Not every bow can be adjusted...
   

Excellent advice.  
 
  I have to travel 1, 2 or 4 hours *one-way* occasionally to a city for important things including air travel and family visits.
 
It is just something I figure has to be done on occasion. We try to limit the necessary "occasions" but then, sometimes it has to be done.
 
 I save up errands so I can do them together. I do research online, by reading, conversation, or by phone so I have 'all my ducks in a row' before I go.
 
  Once in a while you can ride together with a friend or family member to save ga$ money.
 
 So it seems, you are good to keep up what you are doing -- your research to figure out a couple choices -- or decide ahead what you want.  IMHO my suggestion then, is to get in touch with the shop so you know ahead whether they have it. Get to know them via e-mail or phone or snail mail.
 
 Then when you finally get there you can keep the trip efficient and -- maybe they can even have a couple things in stock before you go that you can choose from when you get there so as to take it home and end the *misery* of waiting!
 
  But...it sounds like it would be worth the trip even if you have to wait a bit.  
 
  Better safe than sorry!  
 
  Just my .02
  Blessings
  ~Kit

Thanks for all the good advice to date, I'm still looking, listening, and learning.  Any one else with an opinion is sure welcom to chime in since I always like to accumulate as much information as possible.
Thanks again!

Check out www.recurves.com  tell chad Rich sent ya The Falco might be right up your ally

Here's a link that may help you to determine your draw length. I am checking its methods against my draw length as measured with a bow and a measured arrow.......and the arm-span divided by 2.5 worked out perfect. The average height thing didn't, was an inch and a half off.
 
  http://www.huntersfriend.com/arrowhelp/arrow-selection.htm
 
 I really like that site.

Hello Numberfarmer, I am also new to bow hunting. Have just bought my first bow. Fortunantly we have a shop here. And yes the advice you have been given is all correct indeed, they measured my draw length by having me hold my arm out to the side and then turning my head in same direction. I think he measured from my mouth to tip of my fisted hand. Then he adjusted the bow. I bought the pse deer hunter, it's 27 " with 55# draw. But mine is set to 40 # until I get used to it, and then can set it to a higher draw weight. At the bow shop the guy gave me 6 carbon arrows that are 200. And sold me 75 grain field tips for them. That is a real light weight arrow. The most popular field point or broadhead weight is suppose to be the 100 grain. After getting this setup with the 200 carbon arrows (light weight) and only 75 grain field tips (or broadheads) I have been told that is to light for the arrow weight. And will run the risk of dry fire which is not good for the life of your bow. So as you can tell I'm still trying to get all this figured out too. My best advice to you would be to talk with as many knowledgable bow shooters as possible get all the info. you can. And then go to a shop to buy your bow so they can set the bow to fit you. And fit your arrows to your bow. I am finding it's alot like rifles and bullets. There is a huge selection and each bow shoots a certain arrow weight and length depending on how the bow is set to you personally. I have just started shooting my bow I don't have it tuned right on the money yet but am getting close :D I haven't bought broadheads ( for hunting) yet, and that's another decision with lots of variables and choices depending on my bow, arrow weights and so forth. The farther I get into it though the better I like it. It all sounds real complicated at first but once you start to understand the basics of how it all works things become a little clearer :D. Good luck to you, shouldn't be long until I can get advice from you :D

I finally got a chance to check out the website RatherBHuntin and according to the arm span method I need a 29.5 draw length and according to the height method I need a 28 draw length. Very interesting sight. Thanks for sharing.