Looking at all the new .22 RF suppressors out there whose prices are coming down out of the stratosphere got me to thinking about building a 10/22 and putting a 1:9 twist barrel on it with an integral suppressor, because...

Years ago, when I started buying 80% AR-15 receivers and building them, I bought an 80% 10/22 receiver (with jig). Musta been a good 8 or 9 years ago. Just never got the 'urge' to mill that rcvr 'til now.

Here are three pictures of the receiver in the jig.






Here's a picture of the rcvr with the through holes that 1) hold the trigger group in the action, and 2) the "buffer" pin. 3/16ths bits for the trigger assembly, and 1/4 inch for the buffer pin.


I decided to make my own buffer pin and trigger assembly pins.
Fitting the buffer pin to the rcvr while the billet is still in the lathe.


Here's the last trigger group pin while still on the lathe.


And here is a picture of them all in and holding the trigger group in.


I still have to drill the barrel hole, (more to that story), the magazine detent, and the stock attachment hole. I'll probably do those tomorrow.

I got the trigger group from Ebay for $48.25 including shipping.


I bought a complete bolt for $44.59 again from Ebay.


I bought a barrel clamp and screws for $12.62. You guessed it: Ebay.


And I bought a 16.5", stainless, bull (0.920"), 1:9 twist, barrel for $140 including shipping from Ebay.


I don't recall what I paid for the receiver, but I think I bought the receiver and jig as a kit for $180. Mighta been less, but I'm sure it wasn't more.

I paid $30 for 11/16th and a couple of #16 drill bits.

So not including a stock which I haven't purchased yet, I've got
180 + 140 + 48.25 + 44.59 + 12.62 + 30 = 455.46 bucks in this thing. Probably gonna cost me at least $50 for a stock, so there's $505. I have a scope for it, so I don't have to buy a new one, but the cost is still there, so add another $150 for a Simmons scope brings the total to $650. All I can say is: The @#$%^&* thing better shoot!

That said, there are some "one time" costs that wouldn't go to a second receiver. The jig - given what I'm seeing them for now, I'll split the cost for the rcvr and jig kit -$90. Don't need new drills -$30, so there's $120 off the total - sort of - bringing it down to $530. Still ain't chump change! Especially since I paid $25 for the first 10/22 I bought back in '73. And only $180 for the brand new one I bought a couple of years ago. But... this is a 'purpose-built' rifle. It WILL have a suppressor on it. They're getting easier to get, you just still have to shell out the $200 tax stamp. Come to think of it, tax stamp ($200) and suppressor (~$150), and we're now up to a cool $1000. Sheesh! I could get a REALLY 'good' .22 for that!

Here is the receiver in the stock of the new rifle I bought a couple of years back:

The receiver clearly rides high, but the critical clearance - the safety cross-pin - clears the underside of the stock.

Here's the bolt open:


And here's the fit around the mag well. Notice that the bottom of the front of the mag well is flush with the bottom of the stock. Hmm....
9+

The plastic trigger group. (Factory trigger assemblies are also plastic.)


The fit of the rear of the rcvr is good to the wood, but about a quarter of an inch proud. Yet... the front of the bottom of the mag well is flush with the bottom of the stock.


Here's a bit better overall view. I think I may have to inlet some, but that can't be determined until I get a stock for it.


I'll take a picture all together when I get the barrel hole redrilled and the barrel installed. (Yes, I wrote RE drilled.)

So... Never trust a jig! The jig had the holes for the buffer and the trigger group perfect, as well as the holes for the barrel clamp. However, the barrel hole - the most important one - was off by 0.011". @#$%^&*!!! I should have checked! So... I had to plug the hole and have to drill/mill a NEW ONE. I have the hole plugged. I'm waiting for the Loctite to cure over night. You'd think 0.011" wouldn't matter, but that's actually a BIG error. Not so easy to see in the jig and set up in the mill, I assure you. But too big an error for things to WORK. Grr...

More later...

Paul

That barrel hole guide did look a little suspect...

So... after some detailed conversation with our resident machinist - j0e_bl0ggs - I decided that the only realistic thing to do with the off-center hole was to put it in the 4-jaw chuck and using a boring bar, enlarge the hole and seat a bushing. Most of the machinists I read about REALLY don't like to use 4-jaw chucks because they're just a BEAR to set up. (Each jaw works independently.) BUT... often, they are the only way to get an oddly shaped workpiece chucked in a lathe. Such was the case here with the receiver.

Anticipating all the hassles associated with indexing the receiver to cut the new hole EXACTLY correct, I decided to do the "round" work on the 3-jaw chuck first, and save the 'fun' with the 4-jaw for last. I needed to make two pieces: 1) the bushing, and 2) and indexing rod so I could have something completely round to get the receiver positioned exactly correct for enlarging the hole. I started with the bushing.

We decided that it would be best to make the bushing with a little flange on the barrel end. This would keep the bushing from 'falling' through into the inside of the breech end of the receiver. I did some cypherin' to get the dimensions written down before I started. The primary dimension was the 'bore' of the bushing, which was determined by the stub of the barrel. Then comes how thick to make the wall of the bushing. That was determined by the receiver and the room provided for the barrel. Then to add the flange.

Here are some pictures of the bushing.

Here the bore has been bored out and the outside diameter turned. If you look closely, you can see the flange on the left just to the right of the parting off groove.

Actually, I have just faced-off the piece to it's final length in the above picture.

This is just a different angle and after breaking the edge. Gotta look closely for that flange. It's only 18 thou thick and 15 thou wide.


In this picture you can see the flange clearly.


Here is a picture of the flange parted off of the lathe and on the barrel.

You can see the stub of the barrel extending beyond the flange. That's the way it's supposed to be. The barrel needs to extend into the interior of the receiver for the bolt to rest against it for proper headspace. You can see the relative size of the flange in this picture.

Next was making the indexing rod. Nothing to that really. Just keep taking material off and fitting the receiver to it until it just barely fit the receiver. Here are two pictures of the rod in the receiver showing how it was used to index the receiver in the 4-jaw chuck.




What you can also see in the above picture is the rcvr in the 4-jaw, the 'blocking' I needed to come up with to fill the trigger assembly and bolt cavity. You can also see what I used for protection from the jaws - "marking chalk". Not really chalk, but actually talc. Worked well. Hard enough not to 'give' like wood would do, and soft enough not to mar the aluminum. The best I was able to do was oscillation between thousandths marks on the dial indicator. So something less than 0.001 runout. (Never shoulda used that @#$%^&* jig!)

Since I was going to start  boring on an existing hole that was off-center by 11 thou, I wanted the stiffest and sharpest boring bar I could get in the existing hole. Here's that set-up.

I started with 0.005" cuts and made at least four passes, or until the cutter came out of the hole with no chips on it. Once I was cutting full circle, (the hole was round), I went to 0.020" cuts until I got close. Then I went to 0.005" and tested the bushing after every cut 'til it fit like I wanted it to. Then I cut the 0.015" x 0.018" recess for the flange. It fits like I knew what I was doin'.

On the way to getting a round hole on center:


Here's a picture of the barrel in the rcvr muzzle first, to test how proud the flange was of the face of the receiver. I cut the recess for the flange just a little deeper.


Here is the barrel in the bushing and the bushing in the receiver.


And here's the whole thing assembled:




You'll notice I still haven't drilled the blasted stock mounting hole!

The bolt motion is VERY rough. I need to apply some grease to the inside of the receiver. I also need to drill the magazine detent hole, and of course the stock  mounting hole. The receiver sits a little 'high' in the wooden stock you see in the pictures. When this rifle gets its own stock, I may have to do some minor inletting to get the action to ride a little lower.

I found a source for an 80% stainless steel receiver. I don't want to part with the $265 +S&H for it. I'm thinking very seriously about milling my own steel receiver. It think that's doable by me. I would need some GOOD drawings and a good piece of steel. Probably need a few more mill cutters too.

Anyway... once I get the magazine detent hole drilled, and the stock mounting hole drilled and tapped, (tomorrow!) I should be 'good to go'. I'll grease the bolt and shoot a couple of hundred rounds through it just to 'work' the bolt 'in'. I don't anticipate any problems from this point forward, but I've been wrong about 'anticipating problems' before.

Oh yeah... I was grinding the barrel clamp screws off, (they were too long), and the grinder 'grabbed' one of the screws and flung it into the 'abyss' in my shop. That screw will likely NEVER be found. I have to go get another cap screw. I'm just going to buy on of the correct length.

More when there is more.

Paul

Looking good! I might suggest an internal polish and dry lube for that beast...

Are you referring to the inside of the receiver, or the inside of the bushing? Internal polish on the receiver would a big enough PITA that I would have to pay someone to do it. (Unless it was a spot job just enough to relieve the binding.) Dry lube like graphite isn't a bad idea. I think I need to figure out what's binding first. Not an absolute won't-move bind, but just not smooth movement. I'm planning to Cerakote the outside of the receiver. Will likely do the barrel to match. Heck, I might even do the stock if it turns out to be plastic.

Paul

I might end up spending some money on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-22-Walnut-Stock-920-/182586276592?hash=item2a82fd7af0:g:Io8AAOSwn-tZIjYI

Normally, I wouldn't 'go for' something as 'Buck Rogers' as this, but considering everything about this rifle, I'm kinda likin' this stock for it. I don't think it's gonna stay at $2.50 though.

Paul

PS - But I'm NOT gonna pay $190 for it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Revolution-Ruger-10-22-Talon-Stock-920-Barrel-Channel-Evergreen-Ambidextrous-/272618585889?hash=item3f79557f21:g:8vEAAOSwB-1Y5CTB PLUS $24 shipping.

Paul

PPS - Now THAT'S interesting: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nordic-Components-AR22-KIT-3PC-Stock-Kit-for-Ruger-10-22-Black/381845153931?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40130%26meid%3D55944879c0d24dc0ab28c70b273214b7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D272618585889

Paul

Quote from: gitano;147911Are you referring to the inside of the receiver, or the inside of the bushing? Internal polish on the receiver would a big enough PITA that I would have to pay someone to do it. (Unless it was a spot job just enough to relieve the binding.) Dry lube like graphite isn't a bad idea. I think I need to figure out what's binding first. Not an absolute won't-move bind, but just not smooth movement. I'm planning to Cerakote the outside of the receiver. Will likely do the barrel to match. Heck, I might even do the stock if it turns out to be plastic.

Paul

Inside receiver, get a block and some wet n dry take off the high spots. Dremel with a mop to finish.

Dry lube linky I use on semiautos and the contender goes on thin and does not attract dirt.

What about one of these PMACA Manufacturing 10/22 chassis ?. https://www.pmacamfg.com

They dont just come in blue !.

What about one of these PMACA Manufacturing 10/22 chassis ?. https://www.pmacamfg.com

They dont just come in blue !.

Quote from: j0e_bl0ggs;147913Inside receiver, get a block and some wet n dry take off the high spots. Dremel with a mop to finish.

Suckin' eggs here, Boss.

jaeger88 - I haven't seen those chassis' before. Very interesting. Wouldn't be my choice for a 'walkabout', but for specific purposes (like this rifle) might be interesting. I'd stick with the A1 butt I think though. By the same token, the idea with this rifle is 'camouflage'. In other words, don't stand out. Which, I readily acknowledge eliminates that rakish REVOLUTION from consideration. I'm going to look into those PMACA chassis.

Paul

Dang!

I went to the PMACA site with the expectation that the price of those chassis would make the decision easy. I was pleasantly (?) surprised to find them only $105 +S&H. I actually think I might have to get one. I have all of the ancillary pieces - butt and hand-grip. Hmm...

Thanks. I think.

Paul

PS - So I went through the checkout process, (did NOT buy), to find out how much shipping would be and lo and behold, they use the USPS! $12 shipping to me in AK! It's getting harder and harder to live without one of these.

Paul

So now I'm ticked off!

As I mentioned above, my grinder threw one of my 12-24 cap screws into oblivion. Today I went looking for another. How hard can then be to find, anyway? @#$%^&* and @#$%^&* AGAIN. First I went to Fastenal, that has 'everything' fastening. They don't have any in stock. Then I went to Homeless Despot, and they don't know what they are! Then I went to CarQuest and they have NO cap screws then I went to Alaska Industrial Hardware... Here's where it gets interesting: They have cap screws. They have metric cap screws and they have SAE cap screws. They go in sizes from 2 to 10, SKIP over size 12 and go on to dimensional sizes like 1/4", 3/8", etc. Same thing in every screw size. Same thing in stainless. They ALL skip right over #12! AND WHAT SIZE DID RUGER SELECT FOR THEIR SCREW SIZES??? 12-24! So I have to special order them!

I've run into this issue of screw and thread sizes in firearms before. I think the sons of bachelors INTENTIONALLY select obscure sized screws and threads to make work for themselves. No word of a joke or exaggeration.

Paul

When I was doing all the "positioning" of things, I noticed when the barrel was inserted in the receiver with the half-dovetail of the barrel properly oriented to the mounting stub, the extractor groove was not at "3 o'clock". In other words, as you look at the breech of the barrel from the breech - with the barrel mounted and the clamp tightened - the extractor groove should be exactly at the 3 o'clock position. It's at about 3:30.

When I first saw this, I thought: 1) maybe it's not supposed to be at 3 o'clock, or 2) it's pretty wide, maybe it won't matter if it's off this much. I was wrong. The extractor hits the upper edge of the extractor groove without entering the groove.

I have two options:
1) Return the barrel for replacement IF I CAN GET THEM TO DO IT, or
2) Widen the slot myself.

At this point, I'm going to contact the company. You KNOW I'll let you know what they say.

Paul

Quote from: gitano;147920So now I'm ticked off!

As I mentioned above, my grinder threw one of my 12-24 cap screws into oblivion. Today I went looking for another. How hard can then be to find, anyway? @#$%^&* and @#$%^&* AGAIN. First I went to Fastenal, that has 'everything' fastening. They don't have any in stock. Then I went to Homeless Despot, and they don't know what they are! Then I went to CarQuest and they have NO cap screws then I went to Alaska Industrial Hardware... Here's where it gets interesting: They have cap screws. They have metric cap screws and they have SAE cap screws. They go in sizes from 2 to 10, SKIP over size 12 and go on to dimensional sizes like 1/4", 3/8", etc. Same thing in every screw size. Same thing in stainless. They ALL skip right over #12! AND WHAT SIZE DID RUGER SELECT FOR THEIR SCREW SIZES??? 12-24! So I have to special order them!

I've run into this issue of screw and thread sizes in firearms before. I think the sons of bachelors INTENTIONALLY select obscure sized screws and threads to make work for themselves. No word of a joke or exaggeration.

Paul

Nuffin unusual there, why pick a preferred size when an odd one will do... Brit smiths were wont to make everything special...