Sako stocks have the nastiest poly known to man. I am trying to strip this stock and have been at it for 2 full days less church this AM. The stuff causes cancer in granite! grumble grumble.

After the chemical stripper is applied, wrap the stock loosely in aluminum foil.
The foil will make the stripper far more effective by reducing the evaporation of the key solvents in the stripper and allowing them to work longer at softening the poly resins.

Why didn't you tell me that trick 10 years ago??

I made some progress...it's drying now then into the tin foil!

You'd complain if you were hung with a new rope! :D
 
Sounds to me like it's a "good" finish for protecting the wood!

Paul

It is a good finish for protecting the wood at an extreme level, however.

Quote from: sakorick;151796Why didn't you tell me that trick 10 years ago??

Because nobody asked!
This is an old car restoration trick, and at one time was part of the instructions supplied with the stripper.


A WORD OF CAUTION!

Since I don't know the EXACT composition of the stripper you're using, before you jump in, try some stripper on a small piece of foil, and fold the foil over on itself to seal it in.
Give it a dwell time of 10-15 minutes or so and make sure the aluminum doesn't adversely react (discolor) in a way that might stain the wood.
 In a resto-shop, the substrate the paint is on is almost always steel, and staining isn't an issue since it's not porous like wood.  And even if it does, it will be covered with an opaque primer and paint afterwards.


 The key ingredient in stripper is typically Methylene Chloride and in the concentrations and combinations with other chemicals used, doesn't affect aluminum.  But I'd hate to see a nice Sako stock discolored by something I caused to happen.


The other thing that could happen, is the smell of the stripper may end up holding/lingering in the wood longer.




Good luck with it Rick!.

Using Strypeze and it's in the tinfoil now. How long do you cook it? It's got Methylene Chloride, acetone and some other stuff.....I've got the timer set to 20 minutes.

However long you usually "cook it."  Probably 45min to an hour.  That's the recommended dwell time.

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/document/PDS/en/049542011020/

Remember, the key to this is the foil keeps the stripper from drying out (which is ALWAYS a nightmare), so it will continue to work at full strength, rather than getting weaker over time like you're probably used to.


And this is another caution:  It will be just as potent coming off as it was going on, unlike when you use it without the foil.  So additional caution should be used when scraping it off.

Covering with foil is always a good way to keep those highly evaporative solvents working for you.
Solvents like Acetone and Toluene and Methanol:
http://www2.uwstout.edu/content/msds/Savogran-Strypeeze-Original-Paint-Remover-Savogran-4-1997.pdf

It's doing fine, I rubbed some around on the stock and wrapped it up for 10 more minutes.....no discoloration and seems to be working better with the tin foil.

Good deal Rick!


If I were going to use it on a polyurethane like is on my late 80s Remington stock I would lay the stock on the foil and do just the top side and fold/seal the foil over it.
Once that was scraped and rinsed, I'd flip it over and do the other side.


And I wouldn't try this on a laminated stock at all.
It's liable to dissolve the glue holding the laminations together.

I finished round one with the tin foil and have recoated the stock and wrapped it up again. I plan to cook it for one hour then remove the strypeze in the sink with hot water and a scotch bright pad. I think that I will be able to sand off what's left tomorrow, then point up the checkering, retape the checkering and pad and start refinishing. I'm liking the way the poly is finally coming out of the checkering which has been of great concern.

Well?

Rick, you might want to try a soft stainless steel brush to remove the finish in checkering & other crevasses. If the brush has a plastic handle some chemicals can dissolve the handle. I've used muriatic acid to remove finish on Browning stocks. I used the same stuff bricklayers use to clean  brick walls. Best I remember (dangerous waters any more) it is 2% acid mix. Kills flowers if you make a mistake too.   ......Paul H